The Hardy Wench

Early on Sunday morning we trundled our bags to the station for the next leg of our European exploration. The journey was direct which, proved a relief after some of the extremely short changes we had experienced on our previous travels. It was great to just sit and look out the window while catching up with the Archers (How little we travelers have to sacrifice these days!) The countryside whilst flat was very green with many forests and wind farms.

We were very impressed with the restaurant car complete with white tablecloths, full meal (including dumplings!) and draft beer!

We arrived in Budapest in the late afternoon and were immediately struck by how much larger it seemed than Prague with many grandiose buildings and wide boulevards. Once checked in and freshened up we headed for the river for what we hoped would be a relaxing evening trip on the Danube viewing Budapest at night.

Having been informed there was a boat leaving in ten minutes, we hurried to the quayside and found ourselves in a long queue with lots of wannabe pushers in (just not British!)Some forty minutes later whilst listening to a dreadful live band performing on the riverbank we shuffled onto a boat which was about the size of a Football pitch. The heaving masses proceeded to stand on seats at random vying for good positions from which to take photos, many didn’t even look to see what they were photographing. Whilst we all hate being called tourists and I know I am one, it was not a pleasant spectacle to witness. Having said that the views were incredible and it was impossible not to join the melee to record the amazing sites on offer.

We hustled off the boat and feeling peckish but not really wanting a full meal opted for a langos , a Hungarian version of Pizza with a deep fried base (Not a slimming option but well worth the calories!)

The next morning, well refreshed and free the previous evening thinking we were going into battle rather than a pleasant day’s sight seeing, we headed for ‘The New York Cafe,’ for breakfast. The hotel receptionist has sneerily commented ‘Good Luck” when we told him where we were going so it was a pleasant surprise when we were seated almost immediately! Long queues by the time we came out though!)

It was possibly the poshest breakfast I have ever had. We sat and ate in stuccoed splendor whilst listening to a string quartet alternating with a concert pianist playing on a grand piano. Everything was so beautifully presented and not a dumpling in sight!

Well fortified, we set forth to view the memorial to the Jewish children who were shot beside the river in 1944. This was in the form of iron shoes which replicate the shoes the children were instructed to remove before they were killed. It proved a very moving tribute, I found the pairs which depicted one foot just ahead of the other particularly moving as it would have been the last step they had taken.

Following this sobering site, we headed to the nearby bridge to cross to the Buda side to see the spectacular Castle Buda. The funicular did not appear to be open and it was very hot so after a beer we wimped out of climbing the steps and got the tourist shuttle to the top. Much more than a castle at the top, St Matthias church, a fisherman’s bastion, the Royal Palace (under renovation) and the National Gallery were all set amongst a village set across the hill. The views were spectacular and unfortunately my phone camera does not do them justice!

After another beer we bussed down the hillside and headed for the hotel, a quiet night followed after 20,000 steps in 29 degrees heat we certainly weren’t up for clubbing!

On Tuesday, we decided we deserved a slightly more relaxing day so headed for the Gellert Spa, a short tram ride away. It is part of the Gellert hotel which is about to close for the three year refurbishment. Whilst looking a bit tired, the Art deco splendour was still apparent. Wallowing in the thermal water surrounded by trees with Art Deco fixtures it was hard to believe we were in the centre of a city and provided the perfect antidote for all the tramping around we had done in the previous week. We headed for the indoor pool to be greeted by a whistling Lifeguard because swim hats were compulsory! Managed to buy one so all was not lost and I managed ten lengths although it wasn’t easy in the not so buoyant mineral water.

After a relaxing day with our skin feeling ultra soft we headed back, while Tina had a rest, I headed for one of the ‘Ruin Bars’ which have become famous in Budapest. Situated in what was originally the Jewish ghetto, these were originally rudimentary bars set up on pieces of waste ground between buildings which although now more sophisticated still retain the unique ambiance of their original creation.Decorated in bohemian alternative style the addition of Fairy Lights and raised platforms create a great atmosphere and provide an extensive range of beverages.

Whilst on my way I could not resist taking a photo of the very impressive Hungarian State Opera house and shortly after another of a much less grumpy nun than the Prague variety. I did wonder if he/she was heading to the Opera! Hopefully not to view ‘The Little Infant of Prague,’ admission would certainly be refused!

We finished the day with a splendid Arabic meal (the best I have had since eating Dubai!) thanks to the generosity of Matthew HD. The restaurant was called Goli and I would highly recommend it to anyone visiting Budapest – no dumplings either! It was so lovely to catch up with Matthew and still warm enough to sit on the pavement.